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Whitby

Whitby, on a steep wooded inlet of the River Esk, offers a delightful combination of fishing port and tourist centre.

The ancient town of Whitby has been the scene of the Synod, held at the Abbey of St Hilda; nurtured Caedmon, the first English poet; has fostered the genius of Capt Cook and his sailing ships, built in the town; fathered the abilities and bravery of the Scoresby family, the finest sailors and whalers of their day; hosted authors the likes of the great Charles Dickens and Bram Stoker author of "Dracula".

The old town of Whitby (East side) where its ancient cobbled streets still wind beneath cliffs, dominated by Gothic remains of our Abbey founded ( 657AD ) over 1300 years ago. You can sea and smell the character of years gone by, where picturesque red roofed houses nestle on the slopes above the river Esk.

Whitby is one of Britain`s finest coastlines, with cliffs, panoramic bays and safe sandy beaches. Whitby has been a port for more than a thousand years and is still a seafarer`s town, keeping it`s olde worlde character.

Whitby`s past and present have combined to make it known to millions throughout the world. Even the darker corners of our town have been immortalised in the classic Victorian novel "Dracula". The author Bram Stoker, set three quarters of his story around Whitby and it is still possible to retrace those steps of the undead, taking the "Dracula Trail Tour".

The black stone has been found and worked by local craftsmen for centuries. Each piece is handled ten times in a method of working that has not changed for over 150 years. Craftsmen can be seen today, working their skills on the black stone, known as "Whitby Jet", turning it into the finest jewellery. Sales boomed on the death of Albert the prince consort, husband to our great Queen Victoria, who insisted on nothing better than black for dress or jewellery.

Every visitor to Whitby sees the great Abbey which dominates the East Cliff of the town and many tourists climb the 199 well worn steps to take a closer look at the ruins. You can take in a show; climb the famous 199 steps; browse in the Captain Cook Museum; take in the Dracula Trail guided tour; walk along the harbour front and watch the deep sea trawlers land their catches or just pick one of the many panoramic views of Whitby, sit and watch the world go by. Whitby is centrally located to visit all the places up and down the coast, Scarborough; Goathland (home to the TV series "Heartbeat"); Grosmont and the Steam Railway; the ancient town of York; local fishing villages, such as Robin Hoods Bay; Runswick Bay; Staithes and many more attractions, not forgetting the lovely North Yorkshire Moorlands.

The Monastery of Streoneshalh from which arose Whitby Abbey, was founded in the year 657AD by Oswy, King of Northumbria. Lady Hilda, then 44 years of age, was appointed the first Abbess, and dedicated to St Peter. The ruins of the Abbey as seen today, were built over 500 years after the death of Lady Hilda, who became a Saint and was known by the Anglo Saxon name of Hild, meaning "battle" and was born into the Royal house of Northumbria.

Captain James Cook was born on October 27 th 1728 in the village not far from Whitby, called Marston. The Cook family moved to Great Ayton, where James went to school. At 17 years of age he was placed with Mr William Sanderson, a shop keeper in the coastal village of Staithes . Later, he joined a family from Whitby, the Walker brothers, who owned and sailed ships from the port, serving his time apprenticed to the family business. After his apprenticed days, he sailed the family ships, earning his living. Cook gave up eventual certain promotion to a Captain within the Merchant Navy Services, taking the step to volunteer for the Royal Navy, joining as Able Seaman. He soon rose through the ranks and became a Master, the highest non commissioned post achievable and was highly respected by his superiors. Fame awaited Captain James Cook, who went on to circumnavigate the world three times, mapping the oceans of the world for the Royal Navy.

WHITBY`s Captain James Cook as played by Mr Rex Greenwood

Mr Rex Greenwood as Captain James Cook

The swing bridge which joins the two communities East and West of the river Esk together, has been the scene of rivalry in the earlier part of this century, where gangs of youths would contest the bridge with " t`other side o` watter dogs ". The original bridge was first mentioned in 1351 and used to lie to the South of the present one, roughly aligned with Baxtergate. Centuries ago, houses on wooden piles overhung the river above and below the bridge. A block of early 18th century buildings on the south side was demolished in 1975. The present swing bridge was built in 1909 and is electrically operated.

Useful Telephone Numbers and Places of interest to visit when visiting Whitby :-

English Heritage.......................................

.........................( Tel 0870 3331181 )

Whitby Abbey..........................................

.........................( Tel 01947 603568 )

Whitby Museum, Pannett Park..................

.........................( Tel 01947 602908 )

Whitby Pictorial Archives, Flowergate......

.........................( Tel 01947 821364 )

Lifeboat Museum, Pier Road....................

.........................( Tel 01947 602001 )

Captain Cook Museum, Grape Lane.........

.........................( Tel 01947 601900 )

Dracula Experience, Marine Parade..........

.........................( Tel 01947 601923 )

Whitby Pavilion Theatre, West Cliff..........

.........................( Tel 01947 604855 )

Whitby Tourist Information Office.............

.........................( Tel 01723 383637 )

Rail travel times and fares.........................

..........................( Tel 08457 484950) updated

North Yorkshire Moors Railway...............

.........................( Tel 01750 472508 )

Tees and District Bus Service....................

........................( Tel 0345 124125 )

Train, Bus or Coach Hotline......................

.........................( Tel 0871 2002233) updated

Moor Bus.................................................

.........................( Tel 01439 770173 )

Whitby Swimming Baths...........................

.........................( Tel 01947 604640 )

Whitby Jet. Jet is a type of brown coal, fossilised wood of an ancient tree, similar to our present day "Araucaria", the monkey puzzle tree. These trees flourished in the Jurassic period, about 180 million years ago. When the trees died, they fell into the swamps, rivers or eventually found their way to the sea. The trees would become waterlogged and sink to the bottom, where they lay for millions of years. Dead and decaying organisms, mud and detritus falling on top of the already decaying monkey puzzle tree, causing great pressure, flattening the trunk and branches, together with chemical changes, created what we see today, "Whitby Jet" . Jet has been used as a jewel and talisman for over 4000 years. The ancient Greeks and Romans called the black stone "Gagates" and in the first century AD, Pliny wrote in his natural history notes:- " Gages is a stone, so called from the town and river Gages in Lycia. It is black, smooth, light and porous and differs but little from wood in appearance. The fumes of it, burnt, keeps serpents at a distance and dispels hysterical affections, they detect a tendency also to epilepsy and act as a test to virginity. A decoction of this stone in wine is curative to toothache and in combination with wax, it is good for scrofula." Since the times of Pliny, we have come a long way and improved our knowledge of its chemical and physical properties, taking all that was noted with a pinch of salt.

Whitby Black Jet

Raw Jet

Analysis of the oil contained in "Hard Jet", confirms that it was formed under sea water, while the "Soft Jet", was probably under fresh waters. There is little difference in appearance between hard or soft jet, but hard jet is a tough and durable material, whilst soft jet is far more brittle and having a tendency to crack when worked with or subjected to heat. Nineteenth century workers of jet in Whitby were convinced that jet like amber was a solidified resin. Both were light materials in weight and had the fascinating property of picking up bits of paper as they developed static electricity when rubbed on wool or silk. Studying slices of jet under a microscope gives conclusive evidence of its woody origin, for the annual rings of the original wood can often be seen.

Jet is found throughout the world, although not all of it is the hard jet. Differences between hard and soft jets, lignite and cannel coal is so small, we can say that a type of jet is found in, Russia; Turkey; Germany; France; Spain; Portugal and North America, as well as in England. Works of art from Germany and Spain, show that hard jet was in these two countries at sometime. However, there is no doubt in the minds of our Yorkshiremen and Whitby jet craftsmen, that the best hard jet of all the world comes from Whitby.

Jet of Whitby

A Roman jet pendant or betrothal medallion

Frank Meadow Sutcliffe ( 1853 - 1941 ) A nationally and internationally acclaimed pioneering photographer who helped to develop photography as an art form. Sutcliffe worked in Whitby from the mid 1870`s until his death. Most of his photographs for which he is now famous, were taken out of season. They include many of the harbour, fishing boats, children at play and fishermen.
Sutcliffe`s equipment ranged from the cumbersome brass and mahogany full plate camera, with their wet collodion process of the late nineteenth century, to the hand held bellows type of camera, of this century, using celluloid negatives. The Sutcliffe gallery in Flowergate, Whitby, publish several volumes of his images and can be purchased by the visitor to Whitby.
	Frank Meadow Sutcliffe started his photographic career using wet collodion in 1875, but soon turned towards the dry plates. He followed in the wake of Emerson, whose fame lies in the photographing of Whitby scenes. Sutcliffe`s most famous picture image, called " Water Rats ", caused considerable wrath of the Whitby church and clergy, for the corruption of the young. It is said, that they excommunicated Sutcliffe, for exhibiting what they felt to be indecent. By the same contrast to these clergy, Prince of Wales ( later to become Edward VII ), purchased the very same image. Sutcliffe retired from the photographic world he loved so much in 1922, but remained a curator of the Whitby Literary and Philosophical Society from 1923 until shortly before his death. The Society still operates today.

Whitby Harbour :- Whitby harbour extends to over 80 acres and is well worth taking a look around. The famous port of Whitby, steeped in history, is still a working port of trawlers with their fishermen; boat builders and of cargoes coming and going. Whitby hosted the visit of her long lost ship that of Captain James Cook, the "Bark Endeavour". A visit that will be remembered by all who saw her enter the pier ends of the harbour, sailing proudly back to her place of birth.

On Whitby`s East and West piers, are two lighthouses placed at the harbour entrance, dating back to 1835 and 1855. The lighthouse on the West side of the River Esk is worked manually and only used when vessels are expected, to indicate that it is safe to enter the harbour. By day, a black ball is hoisted on the 83 feet high lighthouse. In the summer, it is open to the public and when you reach the top, there is a fine view. The light from this lighthouse shows green and has a range of ten miles. The lighthouse on the East side of the River Esk is 54 feet high and shows a divided red and green light, the red light showing when the vessel entering the harbour is on an unsafe course, (although in the main, this light is now discarded, due to the placing of a new red light on the church steps, serving the same purpose). Whitby has a permanent dredger working daily during the summer months, keeping the River Esk free from the silt, so the trawlers and smaller craft have clear passage to their berths. The marina in the town was built in 1979 and has moorings for 200 craft.